Moroccan Life in Tiflet

Hey everyone!

Sorry its been so long. Lack of communication while i am in Africa is probably a bit worrying for you mum, but i promise everythings been awesome! Ok now so much has happened since i wrote last so this is going to be really big. REALLY big. Go to the toilet, get something to eat, maybe a glass of wine and put some music on. I currently have old Greggs song about love games in my head from the mighty boosh if you really want to set the scene.

Ok, so when I last wrote i was in Marrakech. After writing that post i kinda went into a bit of a recluse and didnt have much contact with Australia for a while. I was in a pretty bad mood, Marrakech can do it to anyone, and when james and i tried to look around at the palaces, my heart really wasnt in it. We decided to hit the Hammam (public baths) before leaving but some guy we asked for directions took us there and they tried to charge us heaps. we could see the prices and the guy actually kicked us out because we wouldnt pay 5 times the normal price. I was in such a shitty mood. My face actually kept the constant hassling to a minimum as we walked back to find a taxi to the bus station. We get there and they make us run to jump on the bus leaving for Casablanca at 1pm.

The bus is still sitting in the station at 230pm as people argue over seats and fight with drivers and all sorts of crap. the bus tries to drive off as an old lady is getting on and everyone starts fighting again. insane! and its about 55 degrees with no wind or aircon. agony. frustrating horrible agony. and i was already in the worst mood i have been in since i left! i was really ready to snap. had i spoke the language and there a point to it i would have yelled my arse off. Basicallym a horrible bus trip. half way we stop at a servo. people jump off but the bus is moving again in like 3 minutes. everyone starts yelling at the driver and fighting again cos someone was left behind. he wont go back. just bullshit. anyway so we finally get off and were in Casablanca. Heres looking at poo kid!

So i look at the lonely planet and there is a map of casa. i find the bus statin and start walking. i ask a million taxis who all give us bullshit distances and prices. furiously we decide to walk. we just kept asking which way the medina is. (the cheap hostels are always in the medinas) we walked for about 1.5 hours with all our gear and I must admit, i was still f@#king furious when we got there. A relax and some food soon calmed me down a bit. but it was quite the ordeal so i thought i had better mention it. its relevant later.

So we spend a couple of days in Casa, we visit the beach and the 3rd biggest Mosque in the world (The biggest in Africa). its quite a good city. and the shoping is great there too. I now own articles from the following designers.
Ralph Lauren
Armani
Tommy Hilfiger
Von Dutch
Burberry
All genuine articles that must have just been on a mad special or something.

Also in Casa I randomly met a moroccan who spoke awesome english waiting to use the bathroom in the hotel. His name was Tarik and we had a small chat about ourselves. Then the next night we run into him in the street and we start talking. he is a 3d modeller for ubisoft and other game designers. really interesting and really good at what he does. He invites us to go and stay with him in his small town near Rabat. See the real Morocco!

Best decision we have made. Up until now we have been hassled and ripped off. really used for our money and given nothing less then triple price for taxis. He really did show us the true morocco. The morocco that had not been tainted and perverted by tourism. where the people we genuine and the most welcoming i have met. We were instantly part of the family. hugged and kissed on both arival and depatures. given amazing food. just really welcome. ill take you through it.

So we get up in the morning in Casa and go to the Hammam for a shower (or douche in french). then we meet up with Tarik and his friend Yousef. Then we grab a train to Rabat. From there we grab a quick sandwich and jump in a crazy cow. Thats what they call the big taxis here. Theyre old mercs like dainos one, and they put 6 passengers in them. driver and 2 in the front, 4 in the back. Theyre called crazy cows cos theyre big stupid things and they drive them like rally cars. And they pack you in so hard. In one of the ones we caught today james and i were so squashed we had to syncronise our breathing with one going in and one out. otherwise it was too tight if we both went in at the same time. nuts!

So we grab a crazy cow to Tiflet. Tarik's town. We go to his house which is beautiful. (hes kinda well of for a moroccan) his family is amazing. one brother and two sisters, all younger and as soon as we walk in we are given an amazing spread of tea and homemade cakes. We sit and talk before showers then off to a cafe. we meet some of his friends and move on to another cafe. theyre all about the same age as me and james. and so similar to what we are like in Oz. We sat around and made jokes about how gay the other guys were and they told us some crazy stories. Its very different here, 'buying' women is fairly normal practice. and the cafe we were at was just the place to do it. We didnt and neither did they (that night, they had before and im sure would again), but they pointed out who was a 'lady of the night' and who wasnt and how much they were worth.

Tarik was the most liberal and new age muslim i have ever met, but he still came out with some pearlers when talking about women. I was asking him what i should wear in his house, whether a singlet was ok. He said, 'You are a man, you can wear/do whatever you want!' then he threw back his head and laughed whole-bodily. Very different. And it was true, u ask him what was in the food or how it was made and he had no idea. it was womens business etc. just a different culture. dont get me wrong i love this guy, we had big chats about terrorism, muslim religion and all sorts of things and he has the right idea about just about everything. just behind on the whole equal rights movement, old morocco.

So that night we went back to one of his friends place and chatted and played xbox. just like home. sigh. then we grabbed some food on the way home. masses of bbqed meat and olives eaten with bread. awesome. then it was time for bed. In the morn we were given a huge breakfast and left to meet hs friends again. we chilled out at various cafes. it seems that is all they do here. before going home for an amazing moroccan feast of lamb with apricots and dates. then back out to the cafes until dinner. dinner was an amazing moroccan soup. then we bought some beers and the moroccans bought the biggest block of hash i have ever seen. I dont smoke hash so i bought beers and wine but i shared it with them. They cant drink or smoke at all and especially this close to ramadan so i dunno what was going on but they got wasted. I drank a few beers and wine and mainly just watched them smoke. between 6 of them the smoked an over 10g block of hash. it was nuts! we played pro evolution (video gam) all night. its all they play actually and everyone is amazing at it. i have years of practise and couldnt score a goal. seriously incredible guys even when baked out of theyre brains.

So we sleep randomly all over the house (not tariks but his uncles) and we wake up late. we were supposed to be home 10am to go to a farm that his whole family goes to once a month. i have to wake tarik up cos theyre all so scattered and hungover and im feeling good as i only had a few beers and some wine and james and i are the only ones who didnt smoke ourselves into oblivion. So we are late but its ok cos were men and we jump in a crazy cow and go off to the farm. The farm is awesome with the family around. we just eat, get teased in arabic and sleep there. Tagine for lunch and amazing crepes and panacake stuff for afternoon tea. so relaxing and chilled out. its amazing what they can grow in sand too. with just bore water.

Then its back to Tariks for dinner. Seriously theyre killing me with kindness. the food is incredible. an awesome tagine, way different to the one at lunch. this was mainly egg and meat. then james and i use the internet and catch up with guys at the cafe before going to bed.

Finally to today. Wake up slowly and have a big breaky as per usual. For lunch the whole family is home and we have cous cous cos its friday. The father of the family gives us hats that he has made and tells us he will make us free suits if we come back. They say to bring our families next time and he actually says, 'you eat with us the cous cous so now you are family too' It was soo good. They will not accept money or any sort of payment, so i gave the youngest a koala keyring and gave tarik my australian flag towel. James gave him his australian tshirt. They really changed my whole perception. i have been unable to rip off since as i have a real idea. i know proper manners and i understand the people much better.

The world has really turned its back on africa. Tarik cannot even catch a quick 1 hour ferry to spain. he cannot buy things on ebay cos his credit cards arent accepted. The mayor of his town bribes people to elect him and then spends 99% of the money on himself. apparently to buy a horse farm in america. and they can do nothing because anyone else they elect will do the same. when i was appaled by this he just said. its africa. He can not even really get into australia. not even as a tourist without having an amazing amount of money in his account, a person to vouch for him and paying a huge fee. Its disgusting.

So after this we parted ways, kissing and hugging the whole family, my second moroccan family, before getting a crazy cow to another small town. a quick change to another crazy and on to Meknes. This is where we find ourselves now and where i will leave you. (dont worry mum, you're still my real family! and they would love to meet you if youre ever out this way you should drop by).

Sorry that was such a big post, and not nearly as humerous as the last. the last few days have been awesome, heart warming and powerful. Hanging out with someone elses friends and family both felt good but also bad cos i miss mine so much. It really turned me around on africa, up until now it has been a bit of an effort but now i really do feel i understand a bit better and i hace noticed a giant difference in how i am being treated.

Ok, i miss you all. and id love to hear from you all about what you've been up to. even you Igor.

Lots of love
Tim